The DIY temperature controlled fan controller

As I've said in previous blog posts, I've been having heat issues with my newly upgraded PC. The Athlon X4 845 Quad Core processor generates slightly more heat than I expected, so I had to increase the speed of the 12cm fan in the PSU and added another 12cm fan to the top-front of the case, also pulling out hot air at medium speed (7V instead of 12V).

Looking through my PC parts, fans and circuit boards I found an old fan controller, which I salvaged from a power supply a long time ago.


The green electric component is a temperature sensor, the wired plug goes into a fan header and the fan you want to control connects to the plug on the circuit board.

In my PC the fan on the CPU is PWM controlled, so I left it they way it was, and I connected the two 12cm fans to the controller and put the temperature sensor on the CPU's heat sink, as that's the biggest heat generator in the case.

The result was excellent. When in IDLE or light CPU usage, the big fans are virtually inaudible, but as soon as the CPU goes up to 50*C they start pumping out the warm air, so the CPU never goes beyond 57*C, not even in this heat (28*C ambient).

My next step will be to replace the crappy power supply, which adds significant inefficiency and heat to the system, as it reaches 72% efficiency only when under 50% load. At 25% and 75% load it's more like 60% efficient...

I've identified two candidates, which should do the job well:

Both seem good choices, as Inter-Tech is a German brand and Tecnoware is Italian, but they seem a little too cheap for the efficiency they promise. On the other hand I don't need more than 200W and it'll be connected to a good UPS all the time, so if it's missing a couple of safety circuits, it should be no problem.

It all depends on my PSU budget ... I hope I can buy something a bit more serious, which will last me at least 5 years.

Kingston V300 60GB SSD - before warranty ends

Seeing my SSD's life estimation go down to 91%, I checked the actual date when I purchased it and I was surprised to see that it's almost out of warranty, being almost 3 years old (on July 19th).


Yes, I bought this 60GB SSD for 180RON (~45 USD, including VAT) 3 years ago. At first I abused it with downloads and frequent Windows/UBUNTU reinstalls, generating 10TB of writes in the first few months. After that I became wiser and upgraded to Windows 10, which is much better than the old 8.1 I was having frequents troubles with. I also installed a second drive, a 2.5" 320GB laptop hard drive, for downloads and games, taking the strain off the SSD. These two steps resulted in cutting the wear in half, generating another 10TB writes in the past 2-2.5 years.


As you can see I reached 20.5TB of writes, but only 12.5TB of reads. I've explained this before, it's because of the nature of digital storage and computers in general. Long story short, all files need to be written to the drive 100%, while reading almost always happens only partially, as apps and games may have file you never use ... or you abort a download ... skip scenes in downloaded movies ...etc.

These figures may not be representative of average SSD use, as I'm not an average user, but it does point out a flaw in traditional FLASH-based storage, which have a limited number of write cycles and unlimited read cycles ... exactly the opposite of what I need... I have another 11.5TB of writes left, after which the SSD may become unresponsive. In theory the drive's electronics will allow me to copy everything from it when the time comes, but I'm still making backups regularly, as you can never predict 100% accurately how/when hardware failures will happen.

Living with global warming

Whether global warming is the result of human activity or not, the fact is that we have to deal with extreme weather from time to time in most places of the world.
Living in Eastern Europe, I'm experiencing a quite strong heat wave, as some parts of the country got "code red warning", the third time it's happened in recent (documented) centuries. This meas air temperature will rise above 35* Celsius, while buildings and roads (asphalt) may go as high as 72*C, which is simply unbearable.

My room is luckily in the shade of a huge tree most of the day, but the temperature still rises to 27-30*C inside. To combat heat, I'm only using two 30W fans, which can be set up to pull air from the coolest side of the house in different times of the day. They reduce inside temps by a couple of degrees, but at least fresh air is coming in constantly.


On my desk I have a 12 Volt 8cm PC fan, which is connected to a 5V USB power bank, reducing its speed, so it can blow in my direction, without making me sick. For the wiring I used the plug from an old broken USB cable, cut it open and soldered on the fan's wires. Red to the +5V and black to the ground pin. For this application, I don't recommend using the outer layer of the plug as ground, because in some devices it may cause complications.


Here's how the back of the connector looks (with my test wires attached):


The 8cm PC fan is rated at 12V 0.14A, which is 1.68W, but on 5V it consumes less than 1W. With a single cell 2200mAh battery pack it'll spin for about 8 hours, while my enhanced 2-cell 4400mAh battery pack (from the first picture) could power it for up to 20 hours.

This DIY project is really easy and cheap to do, but you can get even better results with a laptop cooling pad, which also connects to a USB port.


All you have to do is orient it the way you want and be aware that more fans mean slightly higher consumption (but still bellow an average USB port's max power, which is 4W). On the other hand these laptop cooling pads are cat proof, as they can't reach the fan blades.

Good news for Model 3 reservation holders

More and more Tesla Model 3 cars are on the road each day, as the start of mass production nears. My best guess is that a couple hundred test Model 3s are on the road, which led to many revealing spy shots in the past few weeks.


This last picture taken of a charging Model 3 reveals that the Model 3 in fact is supercharging at ~70kW, but more interestingly the ~36% battery charge could mean 95 miles of range, so the large battery pack of the Model 3 (75kWh) could offer 300 miles of range.

If we compare these values to the Chevy Bolt EV, which can travel 230+ miles with its 60kWh battery pack, it seems perfectly plausible that a less aggressive driver will have 300+ mile range on the Tesla Model 3.

We also know that in the first few months of production the only available battery pack for the Model 3 will be the biggest one, 75kWh, which will add a couple of thousand dollars to the 35.000 USD base price. In my opinion most buyers will not even consider the smaller battery pack, even if it will offer about 240 miles of range, EPA. This extra couple of thousand dollars will practically guarantee that your Model 3 will have a 200+ mile range even after 10-20 years of use, while with the cheaper battery pack the range may drop to under 200 miles after 10 years or 250.000 miles traveled.

Importance of a sound card in 2017

I recently upgraded my mainboard and CPU, reinstalled Windows 10 and most of the drivers, but left the audio drivers Microsoft has picked out for me.


These are the settings I always enable for use with Philips SHP1900 headphones and Logitech S220 2.1 speakers. Bass boost doesn't do much for the speakers, but the headphones sound flat without it. I need loudness equalization for all the different audio and video I watch/listen too ... which may have lower or higher volume the entire length or just in certain places. Loudness equalization pretty much evens everything out, so you don't have to touch the volume dial in Windows or on your speakers.

This is what I usually do on any computer I use, no matter what kind of sound card they have ... I looked it up in device manager only for this blog post... Right now my sound card is "AMD High Definition Audio Device".


I'm an average user, so I don't need any special audio software or settings, but professionals usually bypass the sound card by using an external DAC device or tap into the unprocessed digital signal coming through the video card's HDMI port.

Once again, this category of users also don't care what sound cards they have, as the quality of the audio will depend exclusively on their external device.

In the old days of ISA sound cards it was up to the user to make it as good as possible, by choosing a better slot for the card, moving all cables as far as possible to avoid interference and disconnect the CD-ROM audio cable, which almost certainly gathered some interference from other components, even from the CD-ROM.

Yamaha Audician 32 Plus

This was my first sound card I bought for my 80486SX 25MHz computer. It didn't have all the fancy features to digitally connect an IDE CD-ROM, but it managed to generate some very impressive sounds (for that time) and I even connected it to a joystick once, through it's MIDI/GAME port.

We played a lot of Mortal Kombat 2 on that PC, it ran really well, but some of the more sophisticated games ran about 30% slower if sound was enabled, so for competitive gaming (like the first Command and Conquer on two computers, linked through a serial COM cable) we usually switched off sound completely ...


CPU coolers - DIY fail

I've recently written blog posts about upgrading my system to AMD Athlon X4 845 Carrizo and MSI A68HM-E33 V2 mainboard. I had several issues with cooling and airflow in my computer case, but I'm finally getting to the bottom of the main problem.


After playing around with the Cooler Master Hyper TX2 CPU cooler and trying different things, I decided to give the stock cooler one more try, as I read in many reviews that temperatures should be at least 10 degrees lower.

So yeah ... the pre-applied stock thermal paste was the problem. Now I installed the stock cooler with the cheap OEM goop I bought 10 years ago, and now temps are normal. Under 100% CPU load the stock fan spins at up to 65% in 24*C ambient and the CPU stays under 55*C. Under the same conditions, the Cooler Master Hyper TX2 has let CPU temperature go up to 61-62*C at 100% fan speed.


I'm very disappointed in Cooler Master, BUT considering that it's a very old CPU cooler and it was dropped on the floor several times, maybe it doesn't function properly anymore.

AMD also disappointed me a little bit, as the pre-applied thermal paste has very poor quality, BUT it's a minor problem, when compared to Intel's glued CPU cap and the same crappy thermal paste inside, and also on the stock cooler.

A new iMAC PRO is coming...

I have never been a fan of Apple, but I always appreciated the innovations they've done in the IT sector. When the iPhone came out I said "Cool, let me buy a cheap touch-screen smartphone from another manufacturer" ... bought the ZTE Racer II (~100USD) ... with the iPad I had the same reaction, I bought the cheapest Android tablet I could find (~25USD).
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The new 4K iMAC Retina 2017, revealed at the recent Apple event, has "80% more efficient cooling" and is configurable with some very impressive processors, while the GPUs won't be too powerful.
Check out ifixit.com
Aesthetically the new iMAC and iMAC PRO look incredible and their vent holes are very nicely hidden: the air intakes are spread out along the edges, while the exhaust is behind the leg.
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It looks like the RAM and CPU socket are standard, but the CPU socket has a weird laptop-like mounting mechanism. After removing the screws you lift up the processor with the cooler, as they are stuck together with thermal paste.
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The CPU can be removed relatively easy, and replaced with any superior model within the same TDP range. It seems that the thermal paste is quite standard, so it might help to replace it with slightly higher quality, as it can improve cooling by 1-5 degrees, enough to pull back the processor from the edge of thermal throttling or just to keep the fan more silent.

The 5K iMAC PRO will come later this year and it will have more or less the same structure, with a slightly improved cooling system based on two fans.


While the iMAC Retina has to handle roughly 120W of heat (65W procesor and 60W GPU), the iMAC PRO will have to deal with a 18 core 140W TDP processor and more powerful graphics chip, let's say another 150W TDP. Yes, the 5K iMAC PRO is bigger than the iMAC Retina, but I'm not sure about how it will cool such high end components with a laptop-like cooling system. The flow of air is more or less optimized, as the hottest air leaves the case ASAP, but it remains to be seen whether things will thermal throttle at full load or not.

Tesla Model 3 configurator - on-line in July

At the recent shareholders meeting Elon Musk did some announcements and clarifications about current and future products, but the most important of them is about the Model 3. Production is about to begin any day now (initially only for Tesla and Space X employees), then by the end of July reservation holders will get an e-mail with an invite to configure their Model 3.


The configurator will look like this, probably without the interior options. Elon didn't state it definitively, but suggested that you'll be able to choose wheel size (18" or 19") and body color, that's it. All the other options will be the a combination of the most frequently requested and easiest to manufacture.

What we already know for sure, is that the first batch of Model 3s will come with the largest battery pack and rear wheel drive. It's not clear yet whether they'll push for all glass roof, or go with the simple metal roof. It will probably depend on the supplier's performance, assuming they are not making it in-house, yet.

Elon joked about the first batch of Model S, which had no options at all, you just ordered "one Model S". It also came with the largest, 85kWh battery pack (probably for value and proof of range) and only rear wheel drive. Later they added more complexity with the Performance (P85) option, which meant you'll get a less efficient, but a lot faster/larger motor and more aggressive electronics/settings. Then they added a second motor in the front for all-wheel-drive and more efficiency on highways and in city traffic...and so on...


About the battery pack we know that the smaller space under the Model 3 allows for 75kWh max. with current Li-ion technology (2170 Gigafactory cells), so that's what customers are hoping for, but it might be less than that, like 70kWh in the first year of production. Don't get me wrong, that is still a lot of energy. For comparison the Chevy Bolt EV has a 60kWh battery pack and has a 230+ mile range. These first Model 3s will most likely exceed that - if I had to guess, I'd say they'll have a 250+ mile EPA rating.


The Chevy Bolt EV uses a permanent magnet motor, which requires rare earth metals (not too ECO friendly), but offers very good regen braking. Tesla uses 3-phase induction motors with a copper rotor, which makes them more environmentally friendly and completely recyclable, but have a slightly less efficient regen braking, as the motor requires some power to generate the - otherwise absent - magnetic field.

The Model 3 motors will most likely have less performance than Model S and X motors, but the durability target is 1,000,000 miles with minimal maintenance (lubrication oil change every 1-2 years or 50.000-100.000 miles). Model 3 will eventually come with all-wheel-drive option in late 2017 or early 2018. To be clear, early production Model 3s will not be upgradable to dual motor AWD. If you'll want AWD you can return your Model 3 to Tesla for a fair price and order a new Model 3 with the additional options you need.

Please visit Tesla's website for more information.

AMD Athlon X4 845 Carrizo - update

In my old Haswell system I had the Cooler Master Hyper TX2 cooler on the Celeron G1820 dual core processor with a 54W TDP, and it was very silent, there was no need for the fan to speed up beyond ~1500RPM. So when I decided to upgrade to the AMD Athlon X4 845 quad core processor, which had a 65W official TDP, I thought the RPM may go up slightly, but nothing noticeable, as the Cooler Master Hyper TX2 can handle up to 125W TDP processors. That was nice thought ... but in reality, my new AMD processor can go up to 90W TDP, twice the TDP of my old Haswell Celeron.


This is how my system is put together now. You can see how stupid it is to have such a small system in a large ATX case, but I'm not going to invest in a new one, as this one cost me like 5 USD 10 years ago and does its job. The most I'm willing to do is a DIY mATX project. It was done already by many DIY-ers, but I think I can bring some new ideas to the table. All I'll need for this to happen is time and money ... only one of which is missing (money).

With the default settings the AMD Athlon X4 845 Carrizo CPU was getting really hot, as the FAN profile had a target of 70*C. While gaming, the temperature stayed around 65*C, which I was very uncomfortable with.

My solution was to set the CPU TDP to 45W from the UEFI BIOS and target CPU temperature to 60*C. Now temperatures stay under 60 degrees, and the FAN is almost always under 65% speed, 1500-2200RPM ... BUT when I'm playing DOTA 2 and running other applications too (~90% CPU utilization), the fan ramps up to 100%, above 3000RPM.


I also have to mention that on my current MSI A68HM-E33 motherboard doesn't really react to the TDP setting. The main difference I have noticed between 45W/65W is that the CPU gets hot quicker with the 65W setting, but temps and fan RPM stay at almost exactly the same level as with the 45W TDP setting, maybe 1-2 degrees higher.

AMD Athlon X4 845 Carrizo finally in my system!

After reading a lot of negative reviews about delivery and feeling pessimistic about my chances, the courier phoned me Saturday morning and arrived in 5 minutes with two separate packages: one sealed bag with the CPU and another sealed bag with the mainboard. So the components arrived in less than 48 hours. My only complaint is that the warranty papers "weren't straight" and the boxes were quite banged up.


I assembled the parts outside the case. And stared at it for a while ...


Then I realized the processor was getting too hot and the cooler too noisy, so I switched the cooler to the Cooler Master Hyper TX2, with a little mod to hold it in place. The stock cooler's original mounting mechanism was too tall for my cooler, as it is a 95W TDP model. If the stock cooler was the 65W TDP model it would have worked ... so after a little DIY magic I mounted the cooler with two zip ties and a strong piece of metal to reach across.


So now the video card is very close to the modded CPU cooler and temperatures were still high, so I did two more modifications to my PC.


I voided the warranty of the power supply, as I took it apart, bent the heatsink fins to have more space for the fan and mounted it with silicone screws. Now the 12cm fan can spin at full speed without murdering my ears. I also added a second 12cm in the front of the case (where the 5.25" bays are), which also pulls out warm air, not at full speed though.

NOTE: my PC is above the monitors on a shelf, so none of the fans will blow in my direction, just sideways.

With the current configuration, my system is about 2x faster than my old dual core Haswell Celeron G1820. I can play DOTA 2 (second lowest graphics setting) and watch a 720p Youtube video on the other monitor without any issues. With 25*C room temperature the video card stays under 50*C and the CPU under 65*C at full load. I did do a little overclock via FSB, as I felt cheated when I saw the processor's frequency at 3.75GHz instead of 3.8GHz... so I increased the FSB from 100MHz to 101MHz 😎 now it's at 3833MHz.

Today I put my PC together with the parts I had at hand, but in the future I'll replace both 12cm fans and get a better mounting mechanism for the Cooler Master Hyper TX2. All the fans in my system are the cheapest...

Some time further in the future I'll upgrade my ATI Radeon HD 5550 512MB GDDR5 video card and possibly my 60GB SSD too, but for now it's good as it is, I started and will continue enjoying it 😎